Cusco: A Culinary Journey Through Peru’s Historic Heart

I spent a few days in Cusco before Machu Picchu. It is probably the top 2 most famous cities in Peru, the other being Lima. I visited this city in Dec 2022 and spent a good week there. It is high up in the mountains so, be prepared for high altitude sickness.

Is Cusco worth going?

This is going to make some people mad, but my experience at Cusco was pretty mid. Mainly because of altitude sickness, which never really got better for me, and the food was overrated. Now let me explain, the food is good, but perhaps it was the places I went to, some restaurants were too touristy so I did not get the best version of some of the iconic Cusco dishes. Also, the food does remind me a lot of asian food in Singapore/ Malaysia/ Indonesia, so while I liked it, I did not find it fascinating like what everyone said about Peruvian food.

Still, many people have high reviews of Cusco, I am sure it is a worthy place to visit, especially if you are going to Machu Picchu anyway.

What I Ate – Local Dishes, Drinks & Surprises

Fried guinea pig – Local delight

Fried guinea pig, known as “cuy chactado” in Peru, is perhaps the most iconic Cusco dish. The guinea pig is marinated, flattened, and fried until crispy. It is a traditional Andean dish and is typically served with potatoes and salad.

The fried guinea pig was a little too oily for me and it looked scary, there is also the non-fried version. To be honest I did not really like this dish but it is still a must try for the experience.

Cusco Sour and Pork Sandwich – Street Food With a Kick

The Cusco Sour is a traditional Peruvian cocktail originating from Cusco. It is a variation of the famous Pisco Sour, with local adaptations. The drink typically consists of pisco (a type of brandy), fresh lime juice, simple syrup, egg white, and a dash of bitters.

The Pork Sandwich is a delicious and hearty snack commonly found in Peru. It typically consists of succulent slow-cooked pork, known as ‘carnitas’, stuffed in a fresh bun and garnished with salsa criolla (a tangy onion and chili salad). This sandwich is savoury, rich, and bursting with flavour, making it a popular choice for a quick meal.

I love simple food like these, no fancy bullshit.

Lomo Saltado and Caldo de Res – Comfort Food in the Cold Mountain Air

Lomo Saltado is a renowned Peruvian stir-fry dish that fuses Chinese and Peruvian cuisines. The name translates to ‘jumped loin’ in Spanish, referring to the quick cooking method.

Caldo de Res, translating to ‘beef soup’ in Spanish, is a traditional hearty soup originating from Mexico, though it is enjoyed in various Latin American countries, including Peru.

Again, simplicity is best.

Places I Explored – History and Markets

Plaza de Armas – The Heartbeat of Cusco

The Plaza de Armas in Cusco, Peru, holds great historical and cultural significance. Originally the site of Incan royal palaces, it has transformed over the centuries into the city’s central square. Surrounded by impressive colonial architecture, including the Cusco Cathedral and the Church of La Compañía de Jesús, the plaza serves as a vibrant hub for festivals, markets, and daily life.

This is the “centre square” of Cusco, where you can find lots of shops, money exchange, tour agencies cafes/ restaurants and tourists. It is a photogenic spot for sure, I recommend spending a good 2-3 hours just checking out this area as it can be pretty big.

Many tourist blogs shows photos of these narrow walk ways in Cusco, so here I am showing some as well. This is pretty iconic Cusco especially the yellow color.

San Pedro Market – A Feast for the Senses

The San Pedro Market, located in the San Pedro neighborhood of Cusco, Peru, is a bustling hub of local commerce and culture. Established over 70 years ago, it has become a significant landmark for both residents and tourists. Housed in a building designed by Swiss architect Alfred Zollinger, the market showcases a vibrant array of goods, including fresh produce, meats, textiles, and handicrafts. It serves as a vital resource for local residents, offering affordable and diverse products.

This is another good spot to checkout, lots of shops and food stores that are much more affordable than the other touristy places. Food here reminds me of the hawker centres in Singapore, so good, I had to revisit this place many times when I was here. The pork sandwich from earlier is from this place.

This chicken reminds me so much of the chicken used in Singapore chicken rice, it is very delicious and I probably went back 2-3 times just to eat this. And prices are good too.

Cristo Blanco – Big Views Under a Giant White Christ

Cristo Blanco, translating to “White Christ” in Spanish, is a prominent 8-meter tall statue of Jesus located on the Sacsayhuamán hill, overlooking the city of Cusco, Peru. This striking statue was a gift from Palestinian refugees in the 1940s, symbolizing peace and goodwill. 

This statue reminds me of Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, but a lot smaller. It is on top of a hill and you get great views of Cusco from this hill. I quite liked this little tourist attraction and it was easy to get to.

Thoughts

I think Cusco is polarising, some may love it, some may hate it. For me I didn’t really like it for the reasons I stated above, but I can see why someone would love it. Personally I know of someone who digital nomad-ed there for 2 months and loved it.

Regardless, it is a must visit if you are visiting Machu Picchu.