Lima – Ceviche and Cliffs

I visited Lima in January 2023, it is a special city. It has this beautiful looking cliff (Costa Verde) in the Chorrillos neighbourhood near the Miraflores neighbourhood, which is a highly-developed, clean and safe area with lots of modern facilities. But away from this area, it reminded me a lot of the less-developed areas in Vietnam/Thailand with street vendors, older buildings etc.

Lima is what I would describe as a mix of Vietnam and China. There is a huge Peruvian-Chinese community here, lots of Chifa (Chinese Peruvian fusion food), and Peru is a “long-country” shaped just like Vietnam. Some of the streets reminded me of my time in Saigon, Vietnam while others in the Miraflores area reminded me of the Shanghai, China.

Is Lima worth visiting?

I spent about 6 days here in total before and after visiting Machu Picchu. There’s a lot to do in this city, and maybe just for the food you should stay for far longer than that. I did not feel that it was very different from what I am used to in Asia, or rather it is a city that is a mixture of Latino-Chinese cultures. I personally think Lima is worth spending a few days in to experience the vibes and get some very delicious and affordable food. But if you are looking for something more Peruvian, probably Cusco is a better fit.

Food

Ceviche

Ceviche is a renowned Peruvian dish comprising fresh raw fish marinated in citrus juices, primarily lime. This dish is typically accompanied by sides like sweet potato, corn, and lettuce.

When you talk about food in Peru, you talk about Ceviche, the fish salad dish. This is the Chicken Rice to Singapore, the Pho to Vietnam, the Pad Thai to Thailand. I could find it anywhere easily, and I got that from a hawker store (they have hawker centre looking setups just like Singapore/Malaysia) somewhere near the airport. It is easily a 9/10, a very affordable.

Chifa

The other big cuisine is Chifa, Peruvian-Chinese fusion food. Chifa refers to a distinctive culinary tradition in Peru that marries Chinese and Peruvian flavors, originating from Chinese immigrants who settled in the country during the 19th century. The term “chifa” itself means “to eat” in Cantonese.

I got a simple Chinese fried rice. It reminds me a lot of Americanised Chinese food, meaning it is sweeter than Chinese-Chinese food.

Peruvian Sushi (Makis)

Peruvian sushi, commonly known as “Makis” in Peru, is a fusion dish that blends traditional Japanese sushi with Peruvian ingredients and flavours. I was very surprised by the amount of sushi available too. The Peruvian sushi taste pretty good actually! Maybe because Peru is close to the Sea so fish is fresher? It does taste a little different from Japanese sushi, the rice is different I guess. I am a big sushi guy, so definitely give Peruvian sushi a try.

Accommodations

There’s a lot of airbnb available in Lima. I was on a budget so I just got a simple room in shared apartment, which is good enough for all purposes. Lima is like any typical capital city with a wide range of hotels/accommodations available.

Places I went to

Miraflores/ Costa Verde

A bustling district known for its coastal cliffs, vibrant nightlife, and rich cultural scene. Located about 10 km from Lima’s historical center, it offers a striking contrast to the city’s colonial heart. Costa Verde (this cliff) in the Miraflores neighbourhood is perhaps the iconic area in Lima, similar to how Marina Bay Sands is iconic to Singapore. It is unlike anything I have seen before because this cliff looks so majestic with all the buildings and sea nearby.

There are lots of places to take photos of Costa Verde, so I went back a couple of times at different times. You get to see many people around just chilling with friends overlooking the view from the cliff. It is good to spend sometime here in the day and at night.

Huaca Pucllana

A significant archaeological site located in the Miraflores district of Lima, Peru. This pre-Inca pyramid was constructed between 500 and 700 AD by the Lima culture. Huaca Pucllana, which means ‘peccary’ in the indigenous Quechua language, served as a ceremonial and administrative center during its prominence.  It is surrounded by modern buildings and you need to purchase a ticketed tour to visit.

This is an iconic tourist attraction in Lima, however I did not feel that amazed by it because it felt over-touristy and looked more like a construction site. But still, seeing this in the middle of modern buildings was still a unique experience. Perhaps you will like it more than I did.

Larcomar

A modern shopping center nestled on the cliffs of Miraflores, Lima, Peru. This prominent landmark offers a unique blend of shopping, dining, and entertainment against the backdrop of stunning Pacific Ocean views. 

As you can probably tell, everything is close to the Miraflores neighbourhood. This is a big shopping mall build on the edge of the cliff overlooking the sea. Lima can get very misty so I was quite surprised when I first got there. This is a unique shopping mall to get your shopping and food fix. Lots of high-end restaurants that I checked out with my Peruvian classmate from school in USA.

Lima Chinatown

Well well well, I have to checkout Chinatown whenever there is one because I am Chinese-Singaporean, and I needed my Chinese food.

Lima’s Chinatown, known as ‘El Barrio Chino,’ is a vibrant neighborhood located in the historical center of Lima, Peru. This area is renowned for its rich cultural fusion of Chinese and Peruvian traditions, particularly evident in the local cuisine and festivals.

Lima’s Chinatown is much bigger than say, Bueno Aires’. I think there’s a lot of cultural overlap between Peruvian and Chinese so I completely felt like I was in Asia over here.

You can find typical Chinese/Cantonese food here, I had cravings for Chinese red bean bao and I could find very good quality ones here.

Parque Kennedy

Parque Kennedy, located in the heart of the Miraflores district of Lima, Peru, is a vibrant urban space known for its lively atmosphere and cultural significance. Surrounded by a bustling commercial area, the park serves as a central hub for various activities and events.

I love the cat situation here. You see, Parque Kennedy is a park full of cats. I am a big cat guy, so I went around after my sushi dinner to snap some photos of carefree cats like this one. It is a nice small park just for a quick cat snugging session.

Barranco

Barranco is a trendy district situated southwest of Miraflores in Lima, Peru. Known for its vibrant arts scene, colonial architecture, and lively nightlife, Barranco offers a unique blend of cultural and recreational experiences. It is close to Miraflores and easily accessible by Uber. 

The thing about Lima is that there’s a lot of quirky neighbourhoods such as Miraflores/ Barranco etc. They are similar, but different.Barranco feels like it has a lot more character. There’s street arts, restaurants/cafes, sea views etc. You can always snap a few interesting photos of the views. I did not have enough time to explore everywhere but if you have enough time, definitely check each area in-depth.

Centro/ Plaza mayor de Lima

Centro Histórico de Lima was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1991, underscoring its exceptional cultural and architectural significance. This area embodies the rich history of Lima, founded in 1535 by Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro. Today, it stands as a testament to the city’s evolution over nearly five centuries. 

Ok ChatGPT generated description done. I also made a quick trip there, but I felt that it had a completely different vibe from Miraflores. It is more busy, less touristy, and overall I think you can skip it because besides a few buildings it was not too interesting for me.

Few other areas

Just to show how different other parts of Lima can be, I hanged out with my Peruvian classmate for 2 days and he brought me around to beaches and some outskirts. If you have been to Vietnam before you should be able to understand why I said I see a lot of similarities between these 2 countries. Just a short drive away you can see the sea and mountains.

Thoughts

If you like cats (this black cat was in the hostel I stayed at for the first night in Lima) and hawker centre style food settings with fresh fruit juice (papaya), you cannot skip Lima. Most people went straight to Cusco and Machu Picchu when they are in Peru. While I understand those are the highlights, Lima is a place you can stay for weeks and have the modern facilities close to you.

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